Greetings!
If you have reached this page, hopefully you will have seen some of my work. All of the work on this site is my own, including the photographs (with one stated exception). The photos are intended to be an internet community resource; please contact me for permission before using them on websites or reproducing them in print in any context.
I enjoy working in many different styles and media and am equally happy to illustrate for "industry" (for want of a better broad term), or produce bespoke paintings /drawings for individuals.

Original Paintings

Portraits

Sculpture

Glass

Bio

About Illustration
The word illustration covers a multitude of sins; the dictionary definition being "a picture or diagram used to explain or decorate a text".
My own personal definition is a piece of artwork that has a commercial application and doesn't exist as an image for it's own sake.
My own first ventures into commercial illustration were in 1988 when I provided a set of twelve illustrations for a detailed educational
childrens colouring book.

I currently supply illustrations in black and white (line, charcoal, pencil); or full colour, in line and wash, watercolour, acrylic, gouache or coloured pencil.
I also work in photo sculpture, where the image is made in 3d, photographed and digitally enhanced (if necessary).
I usually supply finished artwork on CD as a tif. file at 300 dpi (or higher resolution where required).
I usually work direct with the artistic directors on commercial projects, cutting out the need for expensive agents fees but also have a portfolio of stock images which can be licensed; please contact me for details of available images and further contract details or for a detailed quote for your illustration project or brief.

About Original Paintings
I'm often commissioned to produce original paintings for individuals; subject matter varies greatly but has included houses, cars,
motorcycles and favorite scenery. Paintings can be up to 14" x 18" in size; I usually work in watercolour, acrylic ink or acrylic paint.
Reference material is often provided by my customers but wherever possible I take my own photographs and like to do as
much of the work from life as I possibly can.

About Pet Portraits
Pet portraits are available in watercolour, pencil, acrylic ink or soft pastels on ingres paper.
Wherever possible I like to meet the subject and take some photographs but it is more often the case that I work from
photographs supplied by the owner.
The best starting point for a portrait of your own pet is as good a photograph as you can get,
so here are some tips for photographing animals.

Photography Tips - Good Photos Mean Great Portraits

1.Your photos need to be up close and clear - the more detail I can see in your photographs, the better the portrait
will be. It's worthwhile trying to take the photos over a number of days. If your pet is bored or stressed,
it may show in the photo. What we want is a photo that is really typical of your pet.
2. Daylight photos are best - black or white fur seldom shows up in good detail on flash photos.
Very direct sunlight will cause hard shadows and highlights. On a sunny day, take the photos with your
back to the sun. If you have to take the photos indoors, try to use daylight. Have your back to the window
so that the light source is behind you.
3.Try to take the photo "3/4 profile" - the halfway point between "nose on" and "side on".
Try getting someone to sit next to you and get the animals attention.
4.Get on their level. Most of the time we "look down" at our pet dogs and cats, but for a great photo of your pet,
the camera is best at nose level, or slightly below. (You may even have to lie down to do this!)
Your portrait will hang at eye level (or slightly above).
This is particularly important for "head & shoulers" portraits.
5.Dogs - Best photographed after a brisk walk; panting dogs "smile" for the camera.
6.Small pets - It is often difficult to get a good photo of hamsters/ parrots and other small creatures but as long as the photo is good
enough, I can use other reference material to complete the work. Photograph them eating; it helps keep them in the same place.
Don't worry if your pet has already passed on. You can send me the photos that you have - it will probably still be possible to produce a fine portrait of your pet.

About Sculpture
If you've looked at the "Sculpture / 3D" part of the gallery,you know I'm not talking about marble statues.
Below are some details about celtic clocks and frames.
I generally make "one off" sculptures from epoxy resin putty, this being a very strong material that holds detail, travels well and accepts most paint finishes graciously.
Both polymer clay and epoxy putty are superb materials for making master models from which to take moulds and replicate; epoxy putty being the better of the two because it can be carved, drilled, polished and, perhaps, most importantly, added on to.

About Sculpted Mirror / Picture Frames
The five frames in the gallery are all reproductions of my original sculptures and are made to my own designs, with credit being due to the ancient originators of celtic knots. The dragons and dolphins themselves are my own designs.
The originals are made from a combination of softwood and epoxy resin putty and a one piece mold is taken in Silicone. The frames are cast in reinforced Jesmonite plaster to give faithful detail reproduction and strength. Wooden struts in the frame rebate give secure hanging points and each frame comes with strong brass hanging wire ready fitted.
The finish of each frame begins with a layer of dark coloured dye, followed by several coats of metal wax. A coat of clear lacquer seals the wax for the addition of multiple layers of coloured lacquer and pearlescent/metallic pigments. Each piece is finished with a further two coats of tough, clear lacquer.
The "bas-relief" style of sculpture (as used on the frames and clocks) or "plaque sculpture" can also be applied to bespoke products - ideal for 3D family crests/ heraldic sculpture; in short I can make any picture into a relief piece.

About Clocks
The two Celtic clocks in the gallery are both reproductions of my original sculptures. The designs are based on Celtic knot patterns but are not direct copies of any existing design.
The originals are made from a combination of softwood and epoxy resin putty and a one piece mould is taken in Silicone. The clocks are cast in reinforced Jesmonite plaster to give faithful detail reproduction, strength and smoothness.
The clock movements are Hechinger Quartz and each clock is hand finished in multiple layers of metallic waxes, pearlescent and translucent lacquers.

About Painted Glass
I learnt to make leaded light windows in 1985. Coloured light has qualities for forming an image unlike any paint. (Have you ever noticed that some images look better on your PC screen than when you print them out, no matter how good the print quality is?)
"Genuine" stained glass work is incredibly expensive and time consuming to create but modern materials provide the opportunity to produce work on glass with similar qualities.
Mirrors painted in translucent colours give off uplifting blazes of coloured light and change their appearance depending upon the light source.
Working on mirrors can be difficult - every line made appears in duplicate, which can get a little confusing with a complicated design.

 

Biography
1983 - 1985 Wirral Metropolitan college of Art and Design.
1985 - 1986 Wrexham college of Art and Design.
1986 - 1990 Self employed signwriter, portrait painter. First childrens book illustrations published 1988.
1990 - 1998 Food technician for Dairy Crest & Barry Callebaut bulk chocolate producers.
1998 - 2000 Self employed legal caseworker.
2000 - present. Self employed freelance artist / illustrator supplying greeting card designs, book illustrations etc.